Wide Neck Chunky Crop Top

About This Pattern

This pattern was spontaneously created while I was trying to use up some random yarn on vacation overseas. It was initially intended to be used as a bathing suit cover-up, but I think it is much more versatile than that and deserves a slight rebranding. If you want to hang onto your summer style for a little longer before switching to your fall and winter wardrobe, this is for you! This crop top is typically made with thicker yarn (hence the name) and is perfect for the end-of-summer weather when the temperatures are no longer unbearable and are possibly even a little cool. It can be made with thinner yarn as well, just in case you are more sensitive to heat or want something lighter weight (like a proper bathing suit cover-up!). This project is beginner-friendly and works from the top down.

Materials

  • Category #6 Super Bulky weight yarn, any color you’d like, approximately 300-350 yards (in the photos, I used Caron Tea Cakes in the color Ocean Night and needed 2 skeins [I did not fully use up the second one])

  • Crochet hook in size US K-10.5 / 6.50mm

  • Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

  • Tape measure for taking your measurements and making your gauge

  • Stitch markers (4)

Stitches & Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • st - stitch

  • ch – chain loop

  • sl st – slip stitch

  • tr – treble crochet

  • sp – space

  • inc -increase

  • dec - decrease

  • YO - yarn over

Size

  • This pattern is written in a way that allows you to make it in any size since it is made based on rough measurements.

  • Check out the “Tips” section for more information.

    • Follow the link to the google sheets and make a copy to help you figure out the counts you’ll need for this pattern based on your gauge.

Gauge

  • 4” by 4” square = 9 sts x 4 rows in tr stitch

Pattern Notes

  • The pattern given is roughly a size small/medium, using the excel sheet linked in the “Size” section as well as following the instructions in the “Tips” section, you can make it in your size as well :)

  • This garment will be worked in crochet rounds.

Tips

  • The ch3 at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch!

  • After making an increase, don’t forget there is a stitch in that space (don’t skip it or the sizing will be off)

  • Make sure your counts are correct! It is frustrating having to go back several rows all because you forgot to count.

  • If you wish to match my gauge exactly and yours is currently:

    • More stitches; try increasing your hook size.

    • Less stitches; try decreasing your hook size.

  • The sizing of this garment is based on rough estimates, as a general rule of thumb here are how the parts are supposed to work in case you need to do some troubleshooting since not everyone will be making the exact size garment that I did:

    • Neckline: We want this to be wide (it is in the name after all!) but at the end of the day how wide you want it is up to you. The number you choose should be divisible by 4 though to allow for the increases to be made evenly! The narrower it is, the more likely it is that you will need to add more increasing rows (which are rows 2-8) in order for the sleeves to fit you comfortably. It is important to note that if the pattern is followed exactly that the neckline and waistline will be the same stitch count.

    • Sleeves: Before starting the sleeves, you should be able to pinch the area where you are joining the yarn under your arm (the 2 inc spaces). If it does not close around the width of your arm you should add more increasing rows until it is an appropriate size. If you’d like the sleeves to be longer feel free to stray from the pattern and add more rows!

    • Bottom part of the torso: Depending on how tight fitting you’d like the top to be, feel free to throw in more decreases (or increases) until it is your desired snugness. I’d recommend spacing them evenly for comfort and aesthetic reasons but ultimately that is up to you. Additionally, depending on your bust size and torso length you may want to add more rows until it is to your liking, mine went down to about the bottom of my ribcage.

DISCLAIMER

  • My crochet patterns may not be reprinted or resold as your own.

  • However, you can use this pattern to produce & sell handmade products. 

    • If you decide to do this, you are required to let Knotted Needles know via email (shop.knottedneedles@gmail.com) & credit Knotted Needles as the designer by linking to my website and/or any of my pages.

Pattern

Upper Body:

  • Foundation: Ch 64 sts, join the end to the first ch using a sl st (make sure the ch isn’t twisted)

  • Round 1: Ch 3, tr in each st until end of round, sl st into top of the ch 3. You should have 64 sts

  • Round 2: Ch 3, tr 11 sts, make an inc by placing a tr + ch 1 + tr into one st, tr 8 sts, inc, tr 22 sts, inc, tr 8 sts, inc, tr 11sts, sl st into the top of the ch 3 [68 sts total]

  • Round 3: Place st markers into the ch 1 spaces of the inc sts, ch 3, tr 12 sts, inc where your st marker is and move st marker to newly created ch 1 space, tr 10 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 24 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 10 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 12 sts, sl st into the top of the ch 3 [76]

  • Round 4: Ch 3, tr 13 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 12 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 26 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 12 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 13 sts, sl st into the top of the ch 3 [84]

  • Round 5: Ch 3, tr 14 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 14 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 28 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 14 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 14 sts, sl st into the top of the ch 3 [92]

  • Round 6: Ch 3, tr 15 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 16 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 30 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 16 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 15 sts, sl st into the top of the ch 3 [100]

  • Round 7: Ch 3, tr 16 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 18 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 32 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 18 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 16 sts, sl st into the top of the ch 3 [108]

  • Round 8: Ch 3, tr 17 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 20 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 34 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 20 sts, inc & move st marker, tr 17 sts, sl st into the top of the ch 3 and fasten off the yarn. Now would be a good time to weave in any ends that you currently have to make your life easier [116]

Sleeves:

  • Left sleeve: Sl st into the 2 st marker spaces and ch 3, tr 22 sts, sl st into the top of the ch 3 and fasten off the yarn. Weave in ends. [22]

  • Right sleeve: Sl st into the 2 st marker spaces and ch 3, tr 22 sts, sl st into the top of the ch 3 and fasten off the yarn. Weave in ends. [22]

Lower Body:

  • Round 9: Sl st into the previous ch 3 space from round 8 and ch 3, tr 18 sts, make a dec by starting a tr in one st then when you have pulled through the first 2 loops YO and go into the next st then YO and pull through 2 loops, YO and pull through the next 2 loops, then finally YO and pull through the final 3 loops on the hook, tr 36 sts, dec, tr 18 sts, sl st into the top of the ch 3. [74]

  • Round 10: Ch 3, tr 17 sts, dec, tr 35 sts, dec, tr 18 sts, sl st into the top of the ch 3. [72]

  • Round 11: Ch 3, tr 8 sts, dec, tr 16 sts, dec, tr 16 sts, dec, tr 16 sts, dec, tr 8 sts, sl st into the top of the ch 3. [68]

  • Round 12: Ch 3, tr 8 sts, dec, tr 15 sts, dec, tr 15 sts, dec, tr 15 sts, dec, tr 7 sts, sl st into the top of the ch 3 and fasten off the yarn. Weave in the ends and you’re all done. [64]

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